The big South Korea places guide

The main palace of the Joseon dynasty, changing-of-the-guard ceremony at 10:00 and free entry in hanbok

The palace pavilions reflected in the pond, the most beautiful spot in Korea after dark

The oldest astronomical observatory in East Asia, from the 7th century

A small palace opposite City Hall with the romantic stone-wall walk in autumn

A UNESCO site with the Secret Garden, book the garden tour ahead

King Jeongjo's secondary palace in the heart of Suwon, sword shows in the courtyard

The 15th-century wooden house of the mother and son who appear on the banknotes

The gateway to the DMZ area, the Freedom Bridge and the train halted in 1950

A 5.7 km wall encircling a whole city, UNESCO, a lovely walk at sunset

A complete 15th-century fortress, a Catholic pilgrimage site

You can see the Geumgang Mountains of North Korea along the coastline

The gardens of Korea's great romantic legend, Gwanghallu Pavilion

The quiet palace of the four, gorgeous in autumn leaves and lit up in the evenings

You look through binoculars into North Korea, an experience like no other

The most beautiful Romanesque church in Korea, opposite the hanok gate

The eastern DMZ point by the coast, the Goseong Unification Observatory

The Confucian academy of the scholar Toegye (on the 1,000-won note), UNESCO

Silla royal tombs as grassy mounds in the city center, including the open Cheonmachong tomb

A green stone wall for an afternoon walk, the capital of ancient printing

A complete stone fortress and the UNESCO dolmens nearby

A tunnel North Korea dug under the border, by guided tour only

The 16th-century scholars' garden, the peak of Korean garden aesthetics

The royal tomb found intact with its treasures in 1971

The UNESCO mountain fortress where the king sheltered from the Manchus

The most tranquil corner of Seoul, entry by guided tour only

The portrait hall of the Joseon dynasty's founder in the heart of the hanok village

The capital of the ancient Baekje kingdom, a wall over the river, UNESCO

The world's only underwater tomb, the king who became a guardian dragon

The royal ancestral shrine, UNESCO, living rites once a year

The longest wall in Korea along the mountain ridge, a trek with makgeolli at a village on the way

Korea's National Treasure No. 1, the restored wooden gate

The oldest lotus pond in Korea, a lotus festival in July

The historic lift bridge that opens once a day, a symbol of the city's revival

A memorial to the 1980 democracy uprising, a defining chapter in history

The last station before the North, the 'To Pyongyang' sign waiting for peace

The cliff of Baekje's three thousand court ladies, a boat cruise on the Baengma River

The only UN cemetery in the world, quiet and moving

Nine Joseon royal tombs in one forest, UNESCO without the crowds

UNESCO dolmens, seaside fortresses and Bomunsa Temple

The restored covered wooden bridge, dramatically lit at night

The preserved colonial town, Japanese houses and the old Lee Sung Dang bakery

The Japanese wartime submarine tunnels in the cliffs of Songaksan

The only temple in Korea built on the rocks by the sea, come at sunrise

The pinnacle of Silla architecture, UNESCO, the two famous stone pagodas

A 1,200-year-old temple facing the Gangnam skyscrapers, a perfect contrast

Seoul's Buddhist center, the lantern festival in May circles it

The granite Buddha in an artificial grotto facing the sea, an 8th-century wonder

A sunrise hermitage on a cliff at the tip of the peninsula, among giant rocks

Busan's great mountain temple, stone gates and a bamboo forest

The 14th-century wooden prayer hall, one of the oldest buildings in Korea

The 33-meter bronze Buddha and the only surviving wooden pagoda, UNESCO

The UNESCO temple on the winding river, a sought-after temple stay

A serene lakeside temple near the royal tombs, with a temple-stay program

The vast monastery of the Cheontae order, built up a narrow canyon

A giant stone Buddha and a cable car to the city view, famous autumn leaves

A temple of camellias and autumn leaves in a stream valley, one of the loveliest in the south

A temple stay facing the Dalmasan cliffs at the southern tip of the mainland

A meditative one-kilometer forest walk to a nine-story pagoda

The giant Unification Buddha at the gate to Seoraksan, where the trails begin

A quiet forest temple on the way to the sea, without the tour buses

The colourful hillside village, art alleys and the Little Prince statues

700 hanok houses, the capital of bibimbap, rent hanbok and shoot photos all day

Living hanok alleys between two palaces, come before 9 am

270 traditional houses and horse shows, where the historical dramas are filmed

Five restored hanok houses with free entry at the foot of Namsan

A living 16th-century village on a river bend, the Hahoetal masks, UNESCO

A walled town still lived in, thatched houses in daily use

The village of the wealthy Choi family with the national Gyodong liquor brewery

A mural village on the slopes of Naksan Mountain with views over the city

A living stone village with noble houses, less touristy than Hahoe

A living stone and thatch village, black-stone houses and Jeju's black pigs

Korea's largest Confucian noble village, a living UNESCO site

A North Korean refugee village with a hand-pulled cable ferry and ink-filled sundae

Bukchon's quiet sister, small galleries and cafes without the crowds

The tree-lined avenues from the dramas, bike rental and picnics, peaks in autumn leaves

A picnic with vending-machine ramen on the grass by the river, a true Seoul experience

The most beautiful botanical garden in Korea, a festival of lights in winter

One of the few waterfalls in Asia that falls straight into the sea

A kilometer walk inside a lava tube, always cool, UNESCO

Where the two Han rivers meet, morning mist and wedding photos

The Juknokwon bamboo forest and the photographed avenue, a perfect green day

Endless reed fields and cranes, the sunset view from Yongsan

A restored 11 km urban stream, magical after dark

The local Central Park with a deer enclosure, perfect for a spring picnic

A pampas-grass park on a reclaimed landfill, gold in October's autumn leaves

The three painterly river cliffs, cruises and pedal boats

Korea's first grand garden, the Dream Bridge and the spiral hill

An old charming park with caves, a bonsai garden and peacocks

Korea's city of the future with a water canal, rent boats among the skyscrapers

Three waterfall pools in a subtropical forest in Jungmun

A 1.7 km stalactite cave, one of the most impressive in Korea

A national garden along the river with a large riverside bamboo grove

A cliff park and a bridge over the sea near the industrial city, sunrises

A private 400-year-old bamboo forest, one of the secret drama locations

A cliff park at the tip of Yeongdo Island, a Danubi train and a lighthouse over the ocean

Korea's photographed green-tea terraces, May is the peak

A huge sunken crater ringed with silver grass, peaks in autumn

The giant greenhouse of Jungmun with themed gardens and an observation tower

The new administrative city with the largest leisure lake in Korea

The dramatic volcanic scenery for half the effort, azaleas in spring

The blossom lake at the foot of Lotte Tower, peak cherry blossom in April

A camellia trail around the island with the summit pavilion facing Gwangan Bridge

The largest limestone cave in Asia, underground waterfalls and a monorail

A tuff cone rising from the sea, UNESCO, a 30-minute climb to a once-in-a-lifetime view

A cliff trail facing the Haeundae skyline, the loveliest walk in the city

Korea's dramatic mountains, legendary October autumn leaves and a cable car to Gwongeumseong

Woljeongsa Temple and the thousand-year-old fir tree avenue

The illuminated waterfall of Seogwipo, an easy and lovely evening walk

The famous crater hill, golden in autumn with silver grass

A small island of white beaches and peanut ice cream, a 15-minute ferry

Hexagonal basalt columns facing the waves, Jeju's version of the Giant's Causeway

A camellia island connected by a breakwater, red blooms in winter

A national park within the city limits, granite peaks and temples

A half-day trek with Yeonjuam Hermitage clinging to the cliff

A two-hour urban trek with the best view over the palaces

The southwest section with Mount Sanbangsan and the black cliffs

The photogenic crater of photographer Kim Young-gap, soft lines and horses

The southern cliff island, an hour from Busan, turquoise bays and a botanical park

The legendary forest of the Kim dynasty's birth, flowers changing every season

The red island, a cruise between cliffs in the remote island reserve

The most famous red maple tunnel in Korea, November

The Jusangjeolli basalt columns at the summit, Gwangju's mountain

A mystical cedar avenue in the morning mist, a flat and easy walk

808 steps up to the jagged granite ridge, the best view in Seorak

A lagoon lake with a floating bridge and a bike path, Seoraksan reflected in the water

An open-air museum mountain, dozens of Buddhas carved in the rocks along the trails

A giant rock that sways but never falls, the must-stop on the Ulsanbawi route

Korea's largest man-made city lake, a flower festival in spring

The most beautiful of the coastal sections, cliffs, villages and springs

A cruise between the cliffs of the great central lake

Lakes and bike paths in the heart of rural Gyeonggi

The best rafting in Korea through limestone canyons, spring to summer

Korea's tandem paragliding capital, above the river and hills

1,800 cherry trees along the river, Seoul's cherry blossom festival

An evening walk on the ancient wall with the whole city lit below

Korea's highest peak with a crater lake, set out at dawn

A granite quarry turned into a clear lake and an art center

A lake island with Legoland Korea and kayak rental

The dam lake with bike paths and picnic spots

The gateway to the southern islands, seaweed and ferries to Bogildo

The sea path revealed at the great low tide, the famous spring festival

The classic city viewpoint, ride the cable car up or walk the Namsan forest trail

A bay-crossing cable car with a glass-floor cabin, Korea's oldest beach

An effortless ride up to the granite-cliff viewpoint, book in the morning

A glass floor over the cliffs facing the Oryukdo islets

The candle rock that appears at sunrise in the national anthem, Donghae

The classic view over the harbor, especially beautiful after dark

The gold tower of Yeouido with an art gallery on the observation floor

174 meters of glass floor over the river, with the Soyang Girl statue

A long suspension bridge over Majang Lake, an afternoon trip from Paju

A suspension bridge between cliffs in Ganhyeon Park, with a plank trail on the cliff

A cable car to Bibong Peak above Jecheon's blue lake

A glass viewpoint over the Ara Canal and the Han River

The highest observatory in Korea, the 117th floor with a glass floor

A musical fountain show from the bridge on summer evenings, free

The hand sculpture rising from the sea at the eastern point, New Year sunrise

A cable car over the sea in the city whose song swept Korea, a romantic night

The viewing pavilion above the tea terraces, green-tea ice cream at the kiosk

The tallest beachfront building in Korea, the 100th floor over Haeundae

The silhouette of the inverted golden pagoda in Expo Park

The steep walkway sculpture over Yeongildae Bay, the steel city

The sunrise hill of Jeju City, walk up from the port

Korea's longest cable car crosses the harbor to the island, 3.2 km

The illuminated bridge that is Busan's poster, light shows on weekends

The view over the river bend and the village, a 10-minute climb

A suspension bridge to the bamboo cliff over Cheongpung Lake

A pavilion overlooking the hanok rooftops, a 5-minute climb

A green crater with a secret cypress avenue, a local photo spot

Three illuminated floating islands on the Han, especially lovely at night

The layered tuff cliffs of Suwolbong at sunset, living geology

The famous photo spot of the hanok rooftops with the tower behind

The little mountain that sees the whole archipelago, the historic port city

A glass viewpoint over the bends of the Donggang River

A sunset cruise on the Ara Canal out to the Yellow Sea

The Nymph Bridge over Cheonjeyeon canyon, gilded dragons

A glass viewpoint over the sea at Cheongsapo, beside a beach cafe

The loveliest port city in the south with a cable car up Mireuksan and honey pancakes

A double crater on a cliff edge facing Marado Island, an easy loop walk

Shallow, clear and family-friendly, with Seowoobong Hill above

The city beach with sunrise by the observation tower, open all year

The cafe beach, sit with an americano facing turquoise water

A wide western beach with a freshwater spring rising through the sand

Korea's most famous beach, a kilometer and a half of sand facing the skyscrapers

The sunset beach facing the lit Gwangan Bridge, a row of cafe-bars on the water

A working fishing port and a rocky shoreline on the way to the king's tomb

Korea's surf beach, surf schools and a young vibe

The big beach of the east coast with a lake and a historic pavilion

A sunset beach with the Grandfather and Grandmother rocks, the west coast

Huge sunsets and the world's longest dream fountain, at the southern tip

A quiet lagoon among black lava rocks, fewer tourists

The famous turquoise water facing Biyangdo Island, the best sunset on the island

A giant lagoon at low tide, a natural children's pool at high tide

The old food market, bindaetteok and gimbap, come hungry

Pick a live fish downstairs and eat it as sashimi upstairs

The tastiest covered market on the island, hallabong tangerines and grilled fish

Korea's largest market, everything under one roof, from pipes to glasses

Korea's largest fish market, pick downstairs and eat on the second floor

The coastal town at the gate to Seoraksan, sauced chicken and dried fish

Korea's first night market, food from all over Asia at one stall

A huge market with a famous night market, the historic textile capital

The giant market from the war films, the Sianseon-dong food alley inside

The market the locals actually eat at, next to Hongdae and without the tourists

You buy old coins and fill a lunchbox with them at the stalls

An authentic mountain market, the capital of the Arirang song and wild-herb dishes

Gyeongju's food market, ssambap and eggplant by weight

The capital's night market, street-food stalls until midnight

The big market of Jeolla, mung-bean pancakes and ginseng chicken

The giant crab market of the east coast, king crab in season

A Friday-Saturday night market with young chef stalls

The green-tea plantations with a museum and famous green-tea ice cream

Korea's oldest bakery (1945), a legendary bean bun

The birthplace of jajangmyeon, the noodles in black sauce, and a painted fairy-tale street

The most famous bakery in Korea, an hour-long queue for the fried soboro bun

Sashimi facing Gwangan Bridge, buy downstairs and sit on the water

The dak-galbi capital, spicy chicken on a griddle, an hour from Seoul

The red-bean pastry the city is famous for, since 1939

The Innisfree brand house in the tea fields, soap and coffee workshops

Korea's coffee capital, a row of roasteries facing the waves

An old railway tunnel turned into a persimmon-wine cellar

A strip of seaside cafes in Gijang, the weekend brunch

Chicken braised in sweet soy sauce, the dish the city gave Korea

Grilled clams over coals in a real fishing village, between Haeundae and Songjeong

Romantic pojangmacha stalls on the water, butter shrimp and soju

The street that invented pot tteokbokki, an institution since the 1950s

Seoul's meat market, pick a cut and they grill it for you

The cafe promenade of the west, G-Dragon opened a cafe here and everyone came

The makgeolli alley, one kettle and the table fills with free dishes

The hillside neighbourhood facing Namsan, small bars and rooftop views

King crab and fried shrimp of the east coast, near Sokcho

Chimaek, Korean fried chicken and beer, the real national celebration

The national dish in the city that invented it, with the local mung-bean sprouts

Picking sweet hallabong oranges in season (November to February)

Busan's famous pork soup, the dish that defines the city

The hip hanok street facing the tumuli, cafes and design souvenirs

The old galbi alley, the barbecue of the dock workers

The capital of croaker fish and the seafood cuisine of the south

The international district, world restaurants and a lively nightlife hub

Hanok alleys turned into designer cafes and restaurants, the most Instagram spot in Seoul

The historic coffee street by Deoksugung, golden autumn leaves in November

Zaha Hadid's spaceship, design exhibitions and night markets around it

One of Asia's largest museums, the Silla crown, free entry

The Korean War explained superbly, free, relevant before a DMZ tour

Silla treasures including the golden crown and the Emille Bell

A mural street for the beloved singer, wall paintings and street performances

The largest cantilever roof in the world, home of the Busan Film Festival

One of the best classical halls in Asia, tickets at friendly prices

The Samsung collection, traditional and contemporary under one roof

The haenyeo museum, the diving women in their 80s, UNESCO

Contemporary art on the river island, architecture worth the visit alone

An old hot-spring quarter with a free public foot bath

Dance masks from around the world beside Hahoe Village

The multicultural port quarter opposite Busan Station, living history

Traditional Korean music and dance in weekly performances

A live haenyeo dive at the foot of Sunrise Peak, buy from the catch

Where the world's first metal-type book was printed, before Gutenberg

All the secrets of kimchi including tastings, in Insadong

350 years of a herbal-medicine market, the smell of ginseng in the air

Korea's ceramics capital, wheel-throwing workshops with the artisans

A whole city of publishers, library-cafes and architecture

The traditional-liquor museum with tastings

The capital of the southwest, galleries and the cradle of Korean democracy

Korea's oldest hot springs, a neighbourhood-priced spa, a direct train from Seoul

The adults-only sculpture park, a famous Jeju curiosity (18+)

Second-hand bookshops stacked to the ceiling, a nostalgic corner

Jeju's stone-culture park and the famous grandfather statues

The street of galleries and tea, quality souvenirs and not just kitsch

The COEX mall, the aquarium and the photographed Byeolmadang Library

The big outlet of the Seoul area, brands at half price

The largest department store in the world by Guinness, including the famous Spa Land

600 shops underground at the Express Bus Terminal, cheap and fast

Seoul's upscale side, the COEX mall and the famous library

The heart of Busan nightlife and shopping, endless food alleys

The luxury and celebrity street, where the lookbooks are shot

The cosmetics and street-food street, the stalls wake up in the evening

The ginkgo-lined avenue of independent designers in Sinsa

An art-outlet with galleries, the new generation of shopping

The heart of Korea's third city, shopping and street food between Seoul and Busan

Korea's largest theme park, the T Express is one of the best in the world

The largest indoor theme park in the world, perfect for a rainy day

The film-festival square with handprints and sweet hotteok stalls

Korea's largest zoo and safari with a lake cable car

Korea's largest aquarium, near Seongsan, including a haenyeo show

The best shark tunnel in Seoul, inside the mall

The scariest coasters in Korea, the local version of a theme park

The oldest and largest ski resort, the Olympic runs and the summit gondola

The student neighbourhood, street performances and nightlife, the weekend evening is the peak

An aquarium beneath Haeundae Beach, a rainy-day saver with kids

The national science museum with a giant planetarium, a kids' paradise

A whole neighbourhood painted like a storybook, next to Chinatown

The water park next to Everland, one of the largest in Asia

Colourful capsules on the coastal rail from Haeundae to Cheongsapo

A colourful French village inspired by The Little Prince, near Nami

The first Lego park in East Asia, on an island in Chuncheon's lake

Optical illusions and trick art, a fun rainy-day shelter for families

Gravity-powered karting with mountain views, high demand, book ahead

Sets of old Seoul from the 60s to 80s, Korean nostalgia

The thermal water park of Seorak, hot pools even in the snow

A compact theme park without the Everland queues

An alpine sheep farm on the windy ridge, the Korean Switzerland

An interactive children's museum in the big Children's Grand Park

The whale-culture village and museum, a whale-watching cruise in season

Pedal along old railway tracks by the river on the way to Nami

Pedal along the rail past coves and lit tunnels

Korean baseball or K-pop concerts, a wild group experience

The Olympic ski jumps and family slopes

The tourism board's free K-pop experience center, make your own music video

An experience farm with flower fields that change by season

Yacht cruises and fishing off the northeast coast

A nostalgic seaside amusement park and promenade walk, near Incheon port

Samsung's innovation showcase, free, for gadget lovers

Korea's most luxurious jjimjilbang experience, 22 baths from hot springs

Korea's science city, the Expo Bridge and the National Science Museum

The Buddhist lantern parade in May, living-culture UNESCO

Thousands of lanterns floating on the river in October, among the loveliest in Korea

Korea's biggest winter festival, catching fish through holes in the ice by hand

The largest tulip festival in Asia in spring, the west coast

Korea's biggest fireworks show over the bridge, save a spot from midday

The breakwater from the Goblin series, the photo spot with the flowers

A panoramic train with every seat facing the sea

An old gold mine turned into an experience cave with wine and lights

The Brooklyn of Seoul, old factories turned into cafe-galleries