Korea for a Honeymoon: The Island Koreans Themselves Go To
Jeju has been the Korean honeymoon destination for generations, and Seoul does the other half well. Where to spend the nights and what actually works.
Everything you need to know about South Korea, sorted by topic, from Seoul and its palaces to Busan, Jeju and Korean food.
Jeju has been the Korean honeymoon destination for generations, and Seoul does the other half well. Where to spend the nights and what actually works.
The Korean manners that matter to visitors: two hands, shoes off, chopstick rules, pouring for others, quiet trains, and why nobody expects a tip.
How entering South Korea works: who needs a visa, what K-ETA is and who is exempt, passport validity, and the official sources to check before you fly.
How to get from Incheon Airport into Seoul: AREX express and all-stop trains, limousine buses, taxis, late arrivals, and which fits where you stay.
Everland or Lotte World? Compare the big outdoor park an hour from Seoul with the half-indoor park on the subway, plus who each suits and when to go.
What happens in Korea during Chuseok, from packed intercity trains to quiet, atmospheric cities, and how to plan a trip around the biggest family holiday.
Why most Korea trips settle on the same route: Seoul, Gyeongju and Busan by high-speed rail, with a day-by-day plan and where Jeju fits in.
What five days in Korea covers: four days built around Seoul, one day outside the city, and what you trade away by skipping Busan or Jeju.
The numbers to save before landing in Korea: 112, 119 and the 1330 tourist helpline, plus how pharmacies work and what to do about a lost passport.
Why insurance matters where hospitals are excellent but visitors get no free care: medical limits to look for, hiking and ski clauses, and how claims work.
How Korea's KTX works: main routes and journey times, booking as a visitor, standard versus first class, slower trains, and the rail passes worth buying.
Which Seoul neighbourhood to book: Myeongdong, Hongdae, Insadong, Gangnam, Itaewon and the hanok quarters, and what each is like at night.
Subways children can read, theme parks in the city, bathhouses families use routinely, and food that turns out to be far less alarming than the reputation.
Planning a first trip to South Korea? When to go, how to split time between Seoul, Busan and Jeju, K-ETA and visa basics, and rookie mistakes to skip.
How Korea's tourist VAT refund works: what qualifies, the store counter versus the airport kiosk, and why the net refund is nearer 5 to 8% than 10%.
Which Seoul places in KPop Demon Hunters are drawn faithfully, which are composites, which are pure invention, and how to visit the real ones.
Beyond Hongdae, Seoul has two more nightlife districts: Itaewon's easy international bars, Gangnam's planned clubs, and the ride home after the trains.
The river is Seoul's living room, for picnics, cycling and sunset walks. Which parks suit which evening and where to rent a bike.
A fortress you walk on top of, an island of tree tunnels, a border you can look across and a Chinatown by the sea, all inside two hours of the city.
Christmas in South Korea is a holiday built around couples more than family dinners. Where the winter lights and markets are, and what to eat in the cold.
Everland or Lotte World? Compare the big outdoor park an hour from Seoul with the half-indoor park on the subway, plus who each suits and when to go.
A guide to Hongdae, the arts university district that turns into Seoul's youngest nightlife scene after dark, from free street shows to basement bars.
What five days in Korea covers: four days built around Seoul, one day outside the city, and what you trade away by skipping Busan or Jeju.
Where Seoul's drama stairs, murals, bridges and cafes are, what looks different in person, and how to visit without a paid tour or bothering residents.
Cosmetics in Myeongdong, wholesale at four in the morning in Dongdaemun, young labels in Hongdae and stationery you did not know you wanted.
Which Seoul neighbourhood to book: Myeongdong, Hongdae, Insadong, Gangnam, Itaewon and the hanok quarters, and what each is like at night.
Agency buildings you can photograph from outside, busking in Hongdae, plenty of merchandise, and music show tickets that mostly need a fan club membership.
A four kilometre strip of no man's land an hour from Seoul, visitable only on an authorised tour, where what is open changes with the politics.
Six hundred traditional courtyard houses on a hillside in central Seoul, with people living in them, quiet hours signs on the gates and a view over roofs.
The main royal palace of Seoul, a guard changing ceremony twice a day, and a rule that lets anybody in traditional dress walk in for nothing.
A first-timer guide to Seoul: the key neighborhoods, palaces and hanok lanes, where to eat and shop, nightlife, day trips and how to ride the metro.
More cafes per square kilometre than almost anywhere on earth, open until midnight, where the room is as much the product as the coffee.
A refugee settlement on a Busan hillside, repainted by artists into one of Korea's most photographed places, with residents behind every door.
A quieter alternative to Busan on the southern coast: the cable car and harbour at Tongyeong, nearby islands and ferries, and the beaches on Geoje.
Busan's seaside temple sits on rocks above the water, not up a mountain. Why sunrise is the visit, how to reach it from Haeundae, and temple manners.
The largest fish market in Korea, run largely by women, where you buy something live downstairs and somebody upstairs cooks it while you wait.
One is the famous beach with towers behind it. The other has a suspension bridge across the bay, a light show and better bars. Twenty minutes apart.
A first-timer guide to Busan: the beaches worth your towel, Gamcheon hillside village, Jagalchi fish market, temples on the sea, nightlife and day trips.
East Jeju holds a tuff cone rising out of the sea and a lava tube you can walk inside. How to fit both into one day and what to wear underground.
Jeju has been the Korean honeymoon destination for generations, and Seoul does the other half well. Where to spend the nights and what actually works.
Where to stay on Jeju in South Korea: how to choose between Jeju City, Seogwipo, Jungmun and the quiet coasts, whether you need a car, and how prices peak.
A waymarked coastal network of more than twenty numbered routes circling Jeju, each a day, marked by blue and orange ribbons and a small horse.
A shield volcano in the middle of an island, a crater lake at the top, two long summit trails with cut off times, and a booking system to read first.
A first-timer guide to Jeju: the volcano and lava tubes, beaches and waterfalls, coastal trails, island food and how many days you really need.
Korea is mostly mountain and almost everybody walks up it. What the trails are like, why the gear looks like that, and how to hike straight out of Seoul.
What a Korean templestay involves: the two programme formats, the pre-dawn service, the formal monastic meal, and how to book one that runs in English.
East Jeju holds a tuff cone rising out of the sea and a lava tube you can walk inside. How to fit both into one day and what to wear underground.
Granite ridges, a cable car, a temple in a bowl of mountains and a colour front that comes down from the peaks to the valleys over a fortnight in October.
A fortress you walk on top of, an island of tree tunnels, a border you can look across and a Chinatown by the sea, all inside two hours of the city.
Korea runs two bus networks alongside its railway and reaches most of what the fast trains miss. Seat classes, terminals and what a night bus really is.
A Confucian village in a river bend where an aristocratic clan lived for six hundred years, a satirical masked dance, and the town's two great dishes.
Nearly six kilometres of eighteenth century fortress wall with a walkway along the top, a palace inside it, and a working Korean city around it.
A waymarked coastal network of more than twenty numbered routes circling Jeju, each a day, marked by blue and orange ribbons and a small horse.
A shield volcano in the middle of an island, a crater lake at the top, two long summit trails with cut off times, and a booking system to read first.
Resorts from about an hour out of Seoul, floodlit slopes until late, a reliable cold winter and equipment hire that costs less than lunch in the Alps.
The largest surviving hanok district in Korea, a dish the city is credited with inventing, and an alley of makgeolli houses serving food you did not order.
Royal burial mounds in the middle of town, an observatory, a UNESCO temple in the hills, and a city flat enough that a bicycle is the obvious way round it.
A traveller guide to Korean food: barbecue, stews, street food, free banchan side dishes, what beginners should order, drinking culture and table manners.
What happens once the grill arrives, how to work through the side dishes, which cuts to order and how much to expect a table for two will need at minimum.
Which Korean markets are built for grazing on foot, what to order at each one, and the practical side of paying, timing and hygiene at a street stall.
The largest fish market in Korea, run largely by women, where you buy something live downstairs and somebody upstairs cooks it while you wait.
The largest surviving hanok district in Korea, a dish the city is credited with inventing, and an alley of makgeolli houses serving food you did not order.
More cafes per square kilometre than almost anywhere on earth, open until midnight, where the room is as much the product as the coffee.
Beyond Hongdae, Seoul has two more nightlife districts: Itaewon's easy international bars, Gangnam's planned clubs, and the ride home after the trains.
How Seoul's nightlife districts differ, when the night really starts, how second and third rounds work, and how to get home after the metro stops.
A guide to Hongdae, the arts university district that turns into Seoul's youngest nightlife scene after dark, from free street shows to basement bars.
Google Maps says no route found in Korea? It is not your phone. Here is why walking and driving routes fail, and which two Korean apps work in English.
How to get from Incheon Airport into Seoul: AREX express and all-stop trains, limousine buses, taxis, late arrivals, and which fits where you stay.
Korea runs two bus networks alongside its railway and reaches most of what the fast trains miss. Seat classes, terminals and what a night bus really is.
Some of the fastest and cheapest mobile data anywhere, plus the fifteen minutes of setup before you fly that decides whether your phone works on landing.
What a T-money card is, where to buy one, how to top it up, what it works on beyond the subway, and how to get your deposit back before you fly home.
How Korea's KTX works: main routes and journey times, booking as a visitor, standard versus first class, slower trains, and the rail passes worth buying.
How to get around South Korea: the KTX bullet train, subways, buses and taxis, the T-money card, flights to Jeju, and the map apps you actually need.
What a Korean templestay involves: the two programme formats, the pre-dawn service, the formal monastic meal, and how to book one that runs in English.
Which Seoul places in KPop Demon Hunters are drawn faithfully, which are composites, which are pure invention, and how to visit the real ones.
A refugee settlement on a Busan hillside, repainted by artists into one of Korea's most photographed places, with residents behind every door.
Naked bathing by gender, shared heated rooms in issued pyjamas, a snack bar, a reading room and permission to sleep there. Here is the order of operations.
The Korean manners that matter to visitors: two hands, shoes off, chopstick rules, pouring for others, quiet trains, and why nobody expects a tip.
Where Seoul's drama stairs, murals, bridges and cafes are, what looks different in person, and how to visit without a paid tour or bothering residents.
Busan's seaside temple sits on rocks above the water, not up a mountain. Why sunrise is the visit, how to reach it from Haeundae, and temple manners.
A Confucian village in a river bend where an aristocratic clan lived for six hundred years, a satirical masked dance, and the town's two great dishes.
Nearly six kilometres of eighteenth century fortress wall with a walkway along the top, a palace inside it, and a working Korean city around it.
Agency buildings you can photograph from outside, busking in Hongdae, plenty of merchandise, and music show tickets that mostly need a fan club membership.
Royal burial mounds in the middle of town, an observatory, a UNESCO temple in the hills, and a city flat enough that a bicycle is the obvious way round it.
A four kilometre strip of no man's land an hour from Seoul, visitable only on an authorised tour, where what is open changes with the politics.
Six hundred traditional courtyard houses on a hillside in central Seoul, with people living in them, quiet hours signs on the gates and a view over roofs.
The main royal palace of Seoul, a guard changing ceremony twice a day, and a rule that lets anybody in traditional dress walk in for nothing.
Korea is mostly mountain and almost everybody walks up it. What the trails are like, why the gear looks like that, and how to hike straight out of Seoul.
Granite ridges, a cable car, a temple in a bowl of mountains and a colour front that comes down from the peaks to the valleys over a fortnight in October.
Christmas in South Korea is a holiday built around couples more than family dinners. Where the winter lights and markets are, and what to eat in the cold.
When to visit South Korea: cherry blossoms in spring, autumn foliage, festival summers and ski winters, with the best months for weather, crowds and value.
What happens in Korea during Chuseok, from packed intercity trains to quiet, atmospheric cities, and how to plan a trip around the biggest family holiday.
Resorts from about an hour out of Seoul, floodlit slopes until late, a reliable cold winter and equipment hire that costs less than lunch in the Alps.
The bloom starts on Jeju and the south coast and reaches Seoul roughly a fortnight later, and the forecast is published rather than guessed at.
How Korea's tourist VAT refund works: what qualifies, the store counter versus the airport kiosk, and why the net refund is nearer 5 to 8% than 10%.
Naked bathing by gender, shared heated rooms in issued pyjamas, a snack bar, a reading room and permission to sleep there. Here is the order of operations.
Where a foreign card works in Korea, where it does not, which cash machines accept it, and why leaving a tip causes more confusion than gratitude.
How entering South Korea works: who needs a visa, what K-ETA is and who is exempt, passport validity, and the official sources to check before you fly.
What a trip to South Korea actually costs: where the money goes on beds, food and transport, the free half of Seoul, and how to travel well on less.
Some of the fastest and cheapest mobile data anywhere, plus the fifteen minutes of setup before you fly that decides whether your phone works on landing.
The numbers to save before landing in Korea: 112, 119 and the 1330 tourist helpline, plus how pharmacies work and what to do about a lost passport.
Why insurance matters where hospitals are excellent but visitors get no free care: medical limits to look for, hiking and ski clauses, and how claims work.
What a T-money card is, where to buy one, how to top it up, what it works on beyond the subway, and how to get your deposit back before you fly home.
Cosmetics in Myeongdong, wholesale at four in the morning in Dongdaemun, young labels in Hongdae and stationery you did not know you wanted.
The site has 62 guides covering all of South Korea: Seoul, Busan, Jeju, the heritage cities, food, transport and practical info. They are updated regularly.
Start with the general planning guide and "when to visit Korea", then move on to the Seoul guide, the Busan and Jeju guides, and the ready-made itinerary that matches the number of days you have.
No. Tourist areas have English signage, public transport is very easy to use, and navigation and translation apps handle almost everything. Our guides walk you through how to get by with no trouble.
A mix of ancient tradition and futuristic technology, superb street food, striking nature and seasons, K-pop and pop culture, and a very high level of safety. It is easy to get around and easy to fall for.